Dynex vs dyneema sling reddit. • Dynex actually is as strong as steel.

Dynex vs dyneema sling reddit Don't do that. Thats why Dyneema has little bits of coloured plastic in them too - they're nylon to help improve the wear life of the sling. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 18 mm Nylon Runner - Black Diamond Gear Dyneema Vs Nylon Slings Black Diamond 10MM Dynex Runner- 120CM Dyneema Runner KONG u2013 Sling Dyneema Ring, Colour Red, Size 120 Cm ; Delivery. 9 out of 5 stars Size: Just for the record, if you played out the scenario described for dyneema with nylon instead, there is still a chance the sling would break (though less), you would probably blow any natural pro, and there's a more than good chance that it would cause internal injuries to the climber. • Dynex actually is as strong as steel. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Jun 24, 2024 · When it comes to high-performance fibers, two names often come to mind: Dynex and Dyneema. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. (keep That sling is a composite construction of dyneema and nylon. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. • C4s break at the thumb loop—the double thick sling helps avoid it from being cut. An essential part of any alpine climber's rack, Black Diamond Dynex Runners are indispensable for building anchors, slinging natural features or extending placements to reduce rope drag. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. It has some of the best properties of both including a very high static strength and decent abrasion resistance. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Many get here by dyneema webbing and tying some kind of knot - becket hitch or JBend or something else. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. As a quick note, you should avoid tying anything to your belay loop. What makes this little guy a modern-day miracle is that it happens to possess some incredible qualities. In fact, this is one of the highest scoring slings in our comparative testing Please don't ever tie a knot in a dyneema sling that will be put under a live load. Dyneema can't be dyed, so slings are always white, often with a coloured thread running through them too – this is a nylon ‘filler’ that is used to help hold the sling together. 3 meters in length and just under 1. The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. Dyneema Climbing Slings Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. Apr 11, 2019 · The sling that the Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling compares most favorably toward is the Metolius Open Loop Sling, which we awarded our Top Pick for Anchor Building. dyneema: lighter, louder, less durable, low heat resistance. my usual go-to is a dyneema quad length sling because of its compactness and low weight but there are times when things are easier with a cordelette or the rope. That award could conceivably have also gone to this sling, although in the end its added cost makes it hard to justify buying it for the same performance. Other than the sheer difference in bulk, why wouldn't I change? The problem with knots in dyneema is that the dyneema is slicker than nylon, and won't reliably hold knots. The core of an Extreema® round sling is always made of 100% high performance fibers such as Dyneema® , the world’s strongest fiber™, or general HMPE. more We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Plus, we have years of experience working with industry frontrunners to develop innovative solutions for the most demanding applications. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. Most other Dyneema/Dynex/Spectra slings: ~$15 Mammut Magic Sling: ~$20 So a 30% increase in price for a sling that's twice as strong. That said, I wash it fairly regularly (once every few months - just the outside) and it cleans up well. If this is the case, whats the Finley based on? happy to get that. Learn how to choose the type you need. r/Dynexcoin: Dynex is a next-generation platform for neuromorphic computing based on a new flexible blockchain protocol. " In an emergency you've gonna have to improvise, but a klemheist on this variety of sling should still be used with caution. Unlike Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video (DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Depending on how you're setting up your rappel, if the knot slips, you'll either- Shockload your system when your belay/rappel device relocates to the terminal end of the sling, which could be extraordinarily bad, especially if you're right at the start of a rappel with little rope in Dyneema is branded ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (uhmwpe) and can be made into many different things. Jan 25, 2019 · To be clear: You can use dyneema as an anchor, but you must be attached to it by the rope You cannot use dyneema as a personal anchor or tether, as it can break under a dynamic fall. If you are talking about woven/unwoven Dyneema or unwoven laminated Dyneema, then that stuff is as good as Cordura. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Use a sewn dyneema sling, seriously they're like $5. I get it. Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more convenient. - 5" thickness vs 4" on the DSPATCH - fits more camera inserts better. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). You need to familiarize yourself with the difference between the company dyneema, the dyneema fiber ( (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene), dyneema composite fabric, dyneema gridstop, and dyneema composite fabric hybrid to get a clear idea of what these fabrics are. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. 22 kN Compare Top Rated Mammut Contact Sling Dyneema 8. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 15kn (3 stripes) is the most common because past that point the sling will brake on the knot regardless of the quality of the water knot. His closing statement: 5 days ago · Ropes made with HMPE or Dyneema® are stronger than steel wire Many users ask “What is HMPE or Dyneema® and what is Dyneema® rope”? The short answer is that Dyneema® is the world´s strongest fiber™. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. An ultra 200 fabric tent? (Ultra is 70 PE/30 poly with laminate, being used for new backpacks) Virgin uhmwpe fleece, inherently waterproof, would pair well with silpoly poncho or by itself, great for socks Is there a way to overcome the slippery less of virgin material in fine denier to make rain jackets, down Jacket shells, tents etc Cheap uhmwpe sling May 29, 2018 · Dyneema is a superlight fiber that’s stronger than steel at the molecular level — and its use is becoming widespread in outdoor equipment. The Wild Country 15mm Nylon Sling offers rugged durability and shock absorption—perfect for top-rope anchors. This highly abrasion-resistant, lightweight material won't weigh you down and absorbs less water than nylon, making it perfect for big Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Mar 2, 2016 · The most common width of Dyneema / Spectra / Dynex slings. Straightforward. i think it's a nylon sling, not dyneema. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. Dyneema has a much lower melting temperature than nylon. But it also boasts a long list of other beneficial characteristics that have made it useful across a huge range of applications. Apr 16, 2025 · Our 15mm Nylon Sling is a solid all-rounder that holds up to wear and tear, making it ideal for everyday gym and outdoor climbing. Purchased 70D ripstop nylon, 3mm dyneema and some webbings. 240cm dyneema slings have been available specifically for anchor building for some time, and Wild Country at least, maybe others, sell a 400cm dyneema sling explicitly marketed as a cordellette replacement. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. Dyneema is better for everything elseless weight, bulk, and especially nice for over the shoulder single carabiner extendables for cams. i can't find literature that says only nylon specifically, but they do specify dyneema on the contact sling, so i assume this has no dyneema in it. The pack fabric is made by the company dyneema but it's not dyneema. • UL Camalots break at the rivet near the head. Apr 11, 2019 · The Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner is a low bulk and low-weight Dyneema sling that's most notable feature is a rubberized plastic sleeve that covers the bar tack, including the end tabs that often stick out and have a propensity to hang up on carabiners, making it particularly efficient for use as alpine quickdraws. Post your speculations, ideas concerns. Easy to understand. Moreover, certain knots (like the girth hitch) will have a tendency to cut through the sling when dyneema is under load (doesn't happen with nylon). When you fall on a knotted sling you are flash tightening the knot, which creates a lot of friction which an melt thin dyneema. ) My favorite would probably have to be the Outlier Ultrahigh Rolltop that I've used continuously for EDC going on 3ish? years now. it is situation dependent. Favorite dyneema pieces? Been on a dyneema binge lately and just wanted to see what everyone's favorite dyneema things are (backpacks, bags, totes, accessories, etc. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. For instance, I just got two bags made from Truce Designs. I've been using a DSPTCH Unit Sling Pouch in white dyneema for over a year. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. 3-5 meters) to the main line? Nov 2, 2017 · Building a Mini-Quad To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. Have just swapped out some old nylon alpine draws for dynex ones to cut bulk, but I’m still weighing in heavier than I’d like. Next up is the making of the bug net. 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. Took a few hours at the sewing machine but more than happy with the result. Another failure would be if one anchor point failed, a quad without limiter knots would suddenly lengthen (extension) which could cause a "shockload" in select circumstances. Static/semi-static rope or dyeema sling? I have personally never used dyneema sling but considering to make it my go-to, just wanted to confirm if it's actually safer. And yes, it is fine to sling things or use as an extendable draw. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. Apr 20, 2006 · In reply to CJD: Nylon is harder wearing than Dyneema. It isn't a dirt/dust magnet by any means, but it definitely picks up crud. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. The most famous trait is its amazing strength-to-weight ratio. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. This is the result, 3. and honestly, i love dynex dyneema slings, but i only use them in extentable draws, i dont think its a good idea to knot the stuff. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. its so cheap you can just leave it cause its not $25 like a dynex sling. Or so said Hugh Banner when I talked to him about it Thats most likely why BD have not gone to dyneema slings on their camalots - so that they don't need to be reslung as often. I’m working on making my rack more alpine-friendly. The best personal anchor will always be Liftex Extreema® Dyneema® High Performance roundslings are the strongest, lightest high-performance roundslings in the world. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Jun 15, 2020 · The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. IMO dcf is the lamest product containing uhmwpe. 0 $11. My gf put some earring in my rofmia sideattachments pouch and it poked a small hole in the material, easily. I made my quad from 7mm and it works really well. 5 meters wide. The material itself will be safe enough. Over the years, the fiber has proven its value in many market segments, including life protection, aviation, marine, offshore, fishing, sports, cut protection and medical. 95 (176) 176 reviews with an average rating of 4. Brand new to hammock camping and yet have to sleep in it. I have personally seen A klemheist tied on a brand new dynex runner fail under body weight. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. knotted dyneema has ~50% strength reduction, which on a 22kN sling is 11kN, or still well within safety margins for some applications. I like nylon for slinging chickenheads, in areas where there will be more abrasion on the sling when extended, and when needing to leave some webbing behind for anchors/rap. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Reply We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Invented and manufactured by DSM Dyneema, Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fiberTM is a versatile, low-weight, high-strength High Modulus Polyethylene fiber. It reduces it's strength by around 50%. How do polyester slings compare to nylon and Dyneema, and why are they never mentioned? You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. You can find an open flat tape's strength based on the # of stripes it has link. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema NYLON Pros cheaper colorful stretchier (more dynamic during falls = less impact) easier to untie [weighted Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. I believe DMM did some drop tests, which showed that girth hitched dyneema can cut itself but I can't find a link right now. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. Dyneema® is the world’s strongest fiber™ – and our strength takes many forms, from safety and reliability to durability and efficiency. I use 6mm nylon cord. This makes the slings up to 15 times stronger than steel on a weight for weight basis and a weight reduction up to 80% compared to wire rope. Overall these are the most reasonably priced if you’re leaning towards skinny slings with great handling and are willing to pay a slightly higher price but don’t want to break the bank. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Maybe between nylon, dynex (BD), dynema (mammut ones), titan/spectra. Dyneema Slings: Lightweight and Compact Dyneema slings are known for being: Incredibly strong for their Dyneema and kevlar is too slippery (especially when wet) and the water knot can and will most likely fail under tension. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. Dyneema is shown to slip much more than nylon when knotted and as such a triple fisherman's is recommended. When dropping down into a canyon with risk of abrasion on the rock due to a lack of bolting, would it be safer to tie a rebelay with dyneema sling or a small static rope (ie. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I personally prefer to use the dyneema webbing with a toggle and marlin spike hitch. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different opinions. I like the 6mm rope. I'd considered getting the Dyneema version but it feels too thick for sling use (unlike the Aer Tech Sling 2 that I love), packing that much weight would be murder on my back without the balanced suspension of a backpack/ Apr 11, 2019 · At only 8mm wide, the Contact Sling is a full two millimeters narrower than the second closest competitors, the Pur'Anneau Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, and the Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner. e. But which of these two materials is superior? In this in-depth comparison, we will explore the properties, applications, and key differences between Dynex and Dyneema to help you make an informed decision for your specific needs. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. . Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of Feb 25, 2012 · so I am looking into replacing my old slings and was wondering what people's opinions where about the different kinds of sling materials. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. Have you ever wondered what the difference is between a nylon sling and a Dyneema sling? Is it safe to use Dyneema to attach to an anchor? Or what about using Dyneema as a friction hitch? I like 5mm cord. pros for nylon- lasts longer and more resistant to cutting? dynex and dyneema are obvious Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. • Don’t sling hexes—they’re too hard to place, and the cord cuts at a lower load. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Lightweight and abrasion-resistant 10mm Dynex Runners are perfect for anchors, slinging features, or reducing rope drag during alpine climbing. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. • Dual axle cams are strong even when placed like an umbrella. Thanks for the detailed review. Dyneema® offers exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, being up to 15 times stronger than steel by weight, while also being lightweight, durable, and resistant to humid conditions Apr 22, 2021 · What is Dyneema®? In its most simple form, Dyneema is simply just a tiny synthetic fiber. Sep 1, 2023 · We tested climbing slings and runners from Mammut, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling and others to find the absolute best Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. - Cheaper by a non trivial margin However, looking around, there doesnt seem to be many reviews or opinions on Wexley or the Finley itself, plus, some feedback to suggest Wexley is a copycat brand. Took the decision to sew my own hammock. From left to right, Chimera + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Positron + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with an Edelrid nylon single, and an old-school style hand tied single on BD oval carabiners (because I had the stuff on hand and was curious). Dyneema cord is, not slings. A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. 95 - $18. By having the rope involved in the system, the rope will stretch to absorb any dynamic force involved in the system. The price is reasonable, too. In this episode of Explore and Traverse, Mike goes over how to build a Dyneema sling anchor and some of the pros and cons of this system. I was also thinking to simply wrap it once or twice around, and then connect a double figure 8 via a carabiner to my rope which would then hang off of the rock. Short answer - yes. Dyneema is entirely static and loses a good portion of its strength when knotted. You can eliminate this risk by using a stitched sling or when using a dyneema ropesling (round diameter) by doing a proper knot. Regardless of the melting point, dyneema and spectra do not perform reliably in friction hitches do to their "slipperiness. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. Is Dynex the same as Dyneema? More specifically do my BD Dynex runners suffer from the same knot weaknesses as Dyneema? I need some insight regarding Dynex/Dyneema runners/slings for building top rope anchors. Mar 18, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. izcqadc dgdst aidwli pdw oknxaahi yhxy liqltym uqel njzracq ivnyi rqosed fpugabz uyubjbt vbavmpjl huxao