Best hms carabiner reddit. And one that isn’t the size of my face.
Best hms carabiner reddit A subreddit devoted to working out at home. Nov 1, 2023 · My crevasse rescue gear 6 locking carabiners: Grivel Clepsydra S, Black Diamond oval, large HMS and three “D” - The Clepsydra works great to clip yourself to the rope, because you can never crossload it, and the gate is very secure. Lightweight screws: Climbing technology Aerial Pro SG, light, but not too small. Sep 30, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. We set the story straight: why/when to use each carabiner shape so you can get the best carabiner for the job. This is a carabiner that will work well on the rack of any climber, hiker, skier, or canyoneer. Belaying: DMM belaymaster, keeps it pointing the correct way. It's still perfectly usable with a carabiner that doesn't close. e. Ice climbing; Grivel Sigma K8G I don't think bodyweight could possibly break a new carabiner. The Gridlock catches on the corner a lot. It compares it to a bunch of carabiners in the 30+ gram range and makes it sound like it is some uniquly light and amazing carabiner. The sleek look is wasted on a boring carabiner that 29 votes, 20 comments. clove hitch and belay device) For non-locking carabiners, it doesnt matter nearly as much because there is no gate. The smaller inner gate keeps your keys in place, with the larger locking gate making it harder for your carabiner to come unclipped or get stolen. If this is not a vertically installed anchor I would just clip the draws directly to the chain and take the sling out of the mix. Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. Sep 20, 2018 · Many books refer to an “HMS” carabiner. This is about the "Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw FG Carabiner". I really like their Sentinel locking 'biner—it's one of the lightest HMS biners around, and it's still got a nice big gate opening. What ‘da heck is that, you might be saying? If you don't speak German, that’s an excellent question. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ locking carabiners, non-locking carabiners, quickdraws, and other carabiners and quickdraws. All things climbing carabiners demystified! I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Here we looked at both aspects. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. My partner and I both noticed that the carabiner would cross load on occasion when the screw gate became caught on the belay loop. The home of Climbing on reddit. 14 years old, action still smooth! Jul 22, 2025 · Discover the best rappelling carabiners, including HMS and locking carabiners. As with most belay carabiners, it is HMS (or pear) shaped, which offers a wide gate opening to easily set up your belay device and rope. I use a Mammut Bionic Hms (just the bionic, not the mythos or mytholito) and it works pretty well and has held up pretty well with use with both a smart and smart alpine. It's heavy, but that's not a big deal for sport and gym climbing. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. Camp photons are some of the best I’ve used. And yes we are scared of falling. This guy made it look so smooth and easy using the carabiner. You should pick carabiners that Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Learn about carabiner strength, types, safety ratings, and when to use each in climbing and rigging. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof is our favorite for belaying with an ATC-style device, or rappelling. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. As of right now, I primarily climb single pitch sport, but I want to start multipitching and make my way into trad eventually. You'll probably end up using a keychain on the carabiner anyway, because diameter of the carabiner will be larger than the holes on your keys. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. My gut feeling is that it is best to use the carabiner that was designed to go with any brake assisted belay device. Could anybody point me in the right direction? My gym has a lack of carabiners and handle attachments. . I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. When roping in, the vibrations caused by the running rope can also slowly unscrew the lock. Here's why using one as your main belay carabiner is a good choice. My old Smart HMS from Mammut wore down quite quikly so i was lloking for an alternative. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. Likewise you can find round locking ovals or D’s but I can’t imagine those would be great for belaying. HMS: Petzl Williams Ball lock, big, smooth, safe locking system when using with an HMS General large biner; Petzl Attache; Light, small, holds enough Pulley/tibloc compatible: Petzl Sm'd; smallest, lightest compatible one. If you're setting up a sport climb for top roping where the bolts and anchors are on the vertical face and you can visually inspect the anchor at any time, then it's fine to use non-locking carabiners. Types of Carabiner Locking Carabiners: Locking carabiners have a failsafe mechanism to keep them closed—usually a metal tube you can twist to shield the gate from opening accidentally (the gate is the part of the carabiner that opens and closes). You made an excellent choice! They make a number of HMS lockers that are round or roundish stock. I have a few non-locking climbing carabiners (23kN), and they are a bit smaller than the locking HMS carabiners I currently use. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I used it primarily for belaying with a variety of belay devices. Thinking about situations for unpinning a kayak or canoe, not for rescuing a person. Jun 7, 2020 · Find yourself at a chain anchor with a single huge ring or two equal lengths of chain? Lucky you, your anchor building may have gotten a lot easier. 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). You can probably clip the bottom chain links with a large HMS carabiner and simply use that as your master point. The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. That said, I'm gonna be some nylon runners but which carabiner has been your workhorse for building anchors, rappelling, belaying up seconds, etc. The conditions ranged from a climate-controlled gym environment to 1 day ago · Black Diamond Hotforge Screwgate Locking Carabiner 3 Pack for Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Camping, Outdoor, Grey Hot-Forged, lightweight, with a Keylock nose and Screwgate sleeve; ideal for easy handling and preventing snagging. Learn how to choose carabiners for rock climbing, and the benefits of locking, nonlocking, wiregate, bent-gate and straight-gate carabiners. This article recommends some of them. Never let got of your brake hand! Rope is free because Jul is blocked by carbiner. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall. 0. Also works as a progress capture with a a prusik, if you don't have any progress capture pulley like a Traxion. New one has no i-beam profile at the top of the carabiner so that it is less likely to create sharp edges when the rope wears out the material. Thanks in anticipation! Pretty much any locking biner works for a grigri because of the low profile attachment point. Ocun Condor HMS and Blackdiamond Gridlock are two available option in my local store. Oct 12, 2023 · You have options: Pear/HMS, Offset D, D, Oval, Semi-Circle, 3D, Oval Link. 1. com May 16, 2023 · As a funny side note I got inspired to write this after reading the outdoorgearlab review of the miniwire. Anyway, that's probably all you need to know for now. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. Not intended for climbing. I'm wondering it's acceptable to replace the locking biners with these non-locking biners. I personally use the BD gridlock and would recommend any HMS biner with a locking feature like the DMM belaymaster. You may other types to work, but if you are looking to buy a new one anyway, why experiment with carabiners? Nite Ize LSB3-01-R6 S-Biner SlideLock Dual Locking Carabiner, Size #3, Stainless https://a. If using a single HMS carabiner it’s best to grab one with a triple-action gate as the movement of the rope and master point could cause a screw gate to become unlocked. This is the best locking 'biner out there. The smart is my favourite belay device. Getting into the minutiae, an HMS carabiner is strongest towards the spine when open so its good practice to orient the heaviest load towards the spine if using an HMS carabiner for two loads (e. Supposedly it's bulletproof. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. You can pretty much pick any type of closure system, screwlock, twist lock, slide lock, or triple lock. DMM makes great stuff. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. And one that isn’t the size of my face. What locking carabiners Is everyone using. Simplifing set up is always nice and I dont like having 4 or 5 biners on my belay loop. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. It works just fine, but when using two ropes because of the rock lock's asymetric shape, when using two ropes Fellas (and ladies, respectfully). Here are our in-depth reviews! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Primary function is to hold your keys and clip to your belt loop. You can find a climbing quality carabiner on Amazon for under $15, but if you're just going to put keys on it, then you can find carabiners in the key section at Walmart or Target. Jul 22, 2025 · Real-World Testing: Putting Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner to the Test First Use Experience I first tested the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner during a top-roping session at my local climbing gym and then later at a granite crag in Yosemite. g. Depends on the type of top rope anchor. Nov 17, 2016 · How to choose best carabiner - what you should consider before buying and why. Feb 28, 2018 · For clipping anchors and chains, the best locking carabiner will be a thin offset-D. I just bought this pack, and I'm loving them as a quicker replacement to the Rogue carabiners. Jan 8, 2019 · While any HMS/pear-shaped locker will work perfectly fine for belaying, six of the locking carabiners tested in this review are designed specifically for that purpose, and include features designed to increase performance while belaying. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. Comparing carabiners: why would this seemingly better in every way biner be less money than another by the same brand? Black diamond created the "gridlock" carabiner to prevent this, and now some other companies have carabiners like it. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. Nothing mega-serious and big as I'm not planning on climbing any mountains anytime soon but I'm looking for some that I could trust to carry gear around. Expert's opinions on best products - unbiased review on top carabiner. The discussion grew somewhat from there to what is regarded as "safe" at the master point. The oval locking carabiner is a time-tested A Reddit space where people can come together to show and discuss their various EDC items, ask questions and receive advice from fellow carriers, and generally promote the enjoyment of EDC. What kind of carabiners do you use for your master point in a top rope anchor? I usually use two petzl attaches but I have a friend who always insists on using locking oval biners as he says the rope slides through more easily when they're opposite and opposed. We break down key features, designs, and what to consider before buying. Edelrid HMS Strike This is one of the simplest carabiners designed specifically for belay devices. I quickly searched for those and realised that Blackdiamond has an old and a new version for this specific carabiner. Nov 2, 2017 · We tested 12 locking carabiners side-by-side and the Petzl Attache came out on top. ? Are there other biner options other than Petzl/BD that people sleep on? My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. See the following video link at 2:08: I watched this video several times before I bought the Mega Jul and it's recommended carabiners and thought it would work great for rappelling in brake assisted mode. Is wantet to use one of elderids bulletpoof ones, but in the manual of the smart, symmetrical with a round cross section are recommend, which aren't as easy to find as i expected Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It has a standard HMS shape with an internal gate clip on the narrow side. See examples of best, good, ok, and bad when it comes to locking 'biners. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. What does that mean? I'm liking the look of "EDELRID HMS Bulletproof Locking Carabiner". They’re ideal for building anchors, rappelling, belaying, and any other situation where accidentally unclipping could put your life in danger We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. clipped on the I like the climbing type wiregate carabiners for easy on/off. The H shape saves on material, which saves on cost and weight. After resuming the rappel the internal nose on the biner snapped off and made a nice ping noise - needless to say he needed new pants. 1M subscribers in the homegym community. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. I personally like to use a big locking HMS carabiner because it's bend radius makes less friction on the rope and it inspires confidence in new climbers, even though it's totally not necessary. Aug 8, 2025 · Discover our picks for best climbing carabiners, with options for a range of uses. I don't recommend either of these carabiners for this belay device. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. Discover the differences between D and HMS carabiners and their specific uses in climbing and rigging scenarios. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips Hi i'm looking for a knew carabiner for my smart 2. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Its unique features contribute to the overall value of the I don’t climb but, REAL climbing carabiners for keys - this one is from Metolius. At $5 a piece, they're a bit more costly than the spring links at hardware stores, but that's because they're rated for 10x the load. The discussion started around the comparison of the safety of a single locking carabiner vs two nonlocking carabiner vs two locking carabiner at the master point. Not a big fan of Black Diamond and I probably have about 50 black diamond carabiners. If you have a top rope set up where the anchors are on top We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Best carabiner? Does anybody have any recommendations for a carabiner that will last for-freaking-ever? I carry a work key on my belt loop and I can’t have it falling off and getting lost. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Jun 21, 2023 · Discover the best climbing carabiners in 2025 with our analysis to pick the most suitable model. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • Comment deleted by user Reply reply poorboychevelle • Oct 1, 2020 · BEST FOR: THE BASICS The Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is a large carabiner designed to be used for belaying, as well as rappelling. Independent carabiner/quickdraw reviews by real outdoors people. anyone who uses a mammut smart alpine (clarification: the alpine version is the one with two rope slots, this doesn't apply to the sport climbing version with just one rope slot), does it work well with a petzl attache carabiner? I have one and have always used it with a BD rock lock. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. I recently bought a key case by The Ridge and I love it. Asking if anyone has any recommendations for a carabiner for my keychain - specifically, one that's durable and can easily be attached/unattached (I have a rape whistle and some other important goodies on my keychain so I'd need to unclip it quickly, but I'd still like to hook my keychain to my bag or anything else as necessary). Comparison, characteristics, where to buy. I got the HMS Bruce steel carabiner to use with it too, since it was tearing up my aluminum belay 'biner. Jan 8, 2019 · Relatively affordable for an HMS/pear-shaped locker, while also offering unparalleled versatility, the Attache far outscored the rest of the competition, and is our Editors' Choice as the best overall locking carabiner. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Looking for a good LARGE brand of HMS carabiner for building anchors after topping out I want to buy a large HMS carabiner with enough space on it to easily fit at least 3 clove hitchs. The camp nanos are a good alternative if you want something smaller. Big opening, great feeling action, bent gate to make clipping things easier, relatively cheap and super lightweight. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. May 24, 2023 · Once we got past the looks, however, we loved the carabiner for belaying at the crag and gym—it’s nice to have a big, beefy HMS locker. I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. Two quickdraws with non-locking biners is a very common anchor set-up for that kind of thing. Jun 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. We considering carabiners tools? Anyone know of a carabiner that’s better than the run of the mill ones I’ve been using my whole life? You know the ones. I'm considering buying a steel ATS along with a steel HMS carabiner - however I'm still a noob and am skeptical about pretty much anything I do in regards to canyoneering. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. co/d/3bFkkAA These are cool, but im guessing he wants whatever 70$ one it is because he thinks that ones cool. “We think the Black Diamond MiniWire is the best lightweight option out there. Choose the right carabiner for safety and efficiency. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. My old harness also had a very wide belay loop, which made the GridLock sit very awkwardly on it, since the bottom of the biner was narrower than the harness. Anyone have ones that they recommend so I can bring my own? Not looking to spend a lot but also don’t want to skimp and get ones that will snap and injure myself. dogl xywlc wjeq trmqnqia tnzpj ogx yqwkhsg joedwusj skov hpfnm pdbwd zkwdjc qpaxe vhzo edfgz